Skip to content
The Daily Triptych137 / 365
A gold and enamel brooch in the shape of a standing or walking mute swan. The swan is collared by a gold crown with six fleur-de-lys tines, and has a pin on its right side for fastening. A gold chain ending in a ring is attached to the crown.
CC BY-SA 3.0
CC BY-SA 3.0

I · THE OBJECT · BRITISH MUSEUM

Dunstable Swan Jewel

Renaissance · Gold and enamel

▶ Listen · narrated

An ornate swan brooch, it is all that remains of a lost world, a silent witness to the grandeur of a bygone era.

At a glance

Date made
1400 AD
Where found
Dunstable Friary, England
Collection
British Museum

Look closer

  1. A swan in royal attire

    The brooch is shaped like a standing or walking mute swan, collared by a gold crown with six fleur-de-lys tines. The swan's body is covered in white enamel, its eyes are made of black enamel.

  2. A chain and a pin

    The crown has an attached gold chain that ends with a ring. A pin and catch on the right side allow for fastening onto clothes or hats; this brooch was meant to be worn.

  3. Enamel traces

    Fragments of pink or red enamel remain on the swan's beak, although much of it has fallen away over time. Only traces of black enamel now cover its legs and feet.

The story

The Dunstable Swan Jewel is a small, intricate piece of medieval jewellery in the form of a standing or walking mute swan. Made from gold and white opaque enamel, it was created around 1400 in either England or France. The brooch consists of a standing or walking swan, encased by an ornate gold crown with six fleur-de-lys tines. On the crown there is a gold chain that terminates in a ring; on the right side of the swan's body is a pin and catch for fastening it to clothes. The swan is 3.2 cm (1 in) high and 2.5 cm (1 in) wide, while the length of the chain is 8.2 cm (3 in). This jewel was discovered in 1965 at Dunstable Friary. There are theories about who might have owned it: a strong possibility is Henry V of England during his time as Prince of Wales. The jewels' white enamel is an early example of a new technique that became popular during this period, and it can be compared to similar pieces from the same era.

Why it mattered then

The Dunstable Swan Jewel would have been highly prized by its original owner due to its intricate design and use of gold and enamel. The white opaque enamel was a recent innovation at the time. This jewel could indicate the status, wealth or importance of its wearer.

Why it matters now

This brooch remains important today for several reasons. It provides insight into the craftsmanship and artistic techniques used during the Renaissance period. Its discovery has also shed light on royal connections in medieval England. Beyond its historical significance, the jewel's design and materials offer a glimpse into the aesthetic preferences of the era. The swan motif was popular in heraldry and symbolism during this time, adding another layer of meaning to the piece. Furthermore, the jewel's preservation allows us to study the techniques used in enamelwork during the Renaissance, offering valuable information for historians and conservators alike.

The surprising detail

The enamel on the swan’s legs and feet is almost completely gone, leaving only traces behind. This loss of material raises questions about how the brooch was handled over time. The jewellery may have been worn extensively or subjected to conditions that caused the enamel to deteriorate more quickly than expected. The use of black, red, and pink enamels in addition to white enamel is noteworthy for its complexity, especially considering its small size: it reflects a high level of skill required to create such intricate details on such a small scale.

How it got here

The Dunstable Swan Jewel was excavated in 1965 on the site of Dunstable Friary and became part of the British Museum collection.

Remember this

The Dunstable Swan Jewel represents an early example of white opaque enamel used in jewelry. It could have belonged to someone of high status or importance during its time.

Test yourself

What is the significance of the fleur-de-lys tines on the crown of the swan brooch?

Go deeper

Image: CC BY-SA 3.0. Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0. Source.

← Back to day 137